Entry

Was Picasso Inspired By Chavin Culture?

Aug 28th, 2006 10:14
Harish Kohli, http://www.awimaway.com

Was Picasso Inspired By Chavin Culture?
WALKING IN PERU’S HIGHLANDS alone without a passport or money can 
itself be a forbidden adventure. And if you know little or no Spanish 
it could be the worst situation you can get yourself in. But such is 
the bond of trekking that when things begin to fall apart, the 
backpackers’ begin to bind together.
I had just lost my jacket with my passport, money, credit cards and 
last bar of chocolate when I met up with Caroline from Wales who was 
trying to polish her Spanish by travelling through remote villages. We 
discussed subjects of mutual interest and soon decided to move on 
together to the plains of Huanuco. 
THE WIDE ‘PLAINS OF HUANUCO’ are filled with cattle. Resting against a 
mud-house along the ancient road, a mid-aged lady arrives on horseback 
to deliver milk. The man in the mud-house transfers it into a plastic 
container. “Improvised refrigeration” he says, as he lowers it into a 
running stream that runs alongside. Then he offers sweet yoghurt, 
which I drink to run down the last crumbs of bread that I found at the 
bottom of my rucksack. 
Across the road where we sit, are the ruins of what was once the 
Hunuco Pampa citidal, a city built for festivals. It lies on the major 
Inca thoroughfare that connected Cusco with Cajamarca. In those days, 
says the caretaker, different ethnic groups who were incorporated into 
the Inca Empire populated the area but why was it known as the ‘city 
of festivals’ is yet unknown. Perhaps it has to do with the abundant 
produce in the region or the sublime beauty, or perhaps because it has 
traces of the most ancient human occupation in Peru, the Lauricocha 
people, dating back some 10,000 years.
HUARAZ – TREKKERS MECCA. Most adventurers, who come to this region as 
I did, start their journey from Huaraz, capital of Ancash and trekkers 
Mecca in Peru. Walking down the main street, I see trekkers stocking 
up on vegetables, eggs, tinned meat, soup packets, marmite and 
local ‘pan’ (bread) that happily lasts for over four days. Chavín is 
three days from Huaraz by llama trek or three hours by bus. I chose 
the later (and lost my jacket on it) to explore the ruins of Chavín de 
Huántar, the temple that existed around 1000–200 B.C. a period called 
the Early Horizon. 
CHAVÍN DE HUÁNTAR is located in the north-central sierra of Peru, 
sandwiched between the desert coast - one of the driest deserts of the 
world - and the humid tropical Amazonian lowlands to the east. The 
famed Andean prehistoric states, culminating with the expansive Inca 
Empire, were primarily situated in coastal and sierra environments.
What surprised me were the animals and plants typical of the lowlands 
in Chavín art. Most observers agree that Chavín de Huántar would not 
have been natural home to the animals like caiman (alligator), monkey, 
and plants represented in their art. But the Mosna River, along which 
Chavín lies, eventually leads to the Amazon where these exist, albeit 
through a tortuous route.
Looking at the site's structures, a simple sequence of construction 
can be postulated. An Old Temple, built in a U-shaped form around a 
circular plaza. And a new temple on a larger scale extending south and 
east. 
EL LANZON. Built underground, its maze of tunnels and air ducts 
produce a profound confusing image in my mind. I am struck by one 
single stone that stands at the centre; beautifully carved with 
snakelike, human and feline features. It is called “El Lanzon” and 
looking at it closely one can note that it has the form of the eye and 
tooth of a jaguar, an orang-utan or a tiger. It is the art that 
impresses me most. But I am not alone in coming to this conclusion. 
Even Pablo Picasso said "Of all of the ancient cultures I admire that 
of Chavín amazes me the most. Actually, it has been the inspiration 
behind most of my art."
"CHAVÍN" Comes from a Quechua Word Meaning "CENTRE OF CENTRES", the 
centre of the universe as a magic and sacred place. Weather Chavín de 
Huántar was a temple or a fort at the centre of the Inca universe or 
weather Lanzon was the stone of power or sacrifice is not known. One 
archaeologist says that, it was a ceremonial centre with a twist on 
its architecture – drains where water could be pushed through and the 
roar of the water could be heard through vents and chambers within the 
centre itself. When this was done, the centre literally "roared," and 
you can imagine how awestruck the worshippers would have been! 
Chavín had proven links with a religious grouping located on the north 
coast and in the sierra of Peru. Recent excavations have clearly 
proved these links by unearthing Chavín ceramics in the surroundings 
of Puemape, in Cajamarca.
MACHU PICCHU. There are so many of us who have been to Machu Picchu 
and there are so many more of us who know the famous Inca citadel, 
than those of us who have walked through the temple of Chavín. 
Archaeologist John Rick of Stanford University is trying to turn this 
renowned archaeological site into a tourist interest destination that 
is of equal importance as Machu Picchu. Rick, who has been digging in 
for over 10 years, believes that this is not only feasible but also 
possible. The future of Chavín de Huántar looks promising thanks to 
the support and the Global Heritage Fund. 
Caroline had by now decided to study Chavín art and to stay back in 
Peru longer than she had planned. But I had to turn back and return to 
Lima to get my new passport and return home. Sitting in the aircraft I 
kept weighing the importance of Machu Picchu against Chavín de 
Huántar. Just as Machu Picchu is grand, Chavín to is mysterious and 
the more I think of it, the more impressive it becomes. May be one 
day, we may know the secrets of the stone of power but till then, it 
will remain shrouded in mist and mystery and inspire us with its art. 
Harish Kohli
Adventure travel and Activity tour
http://www.awimaway.com